Postcards from Pai: Falling for Northern Thailand

For years, I dreamed of experiencing the magic of the Chiang Mai Lantern Festival—and in November 2024, that dream finally came true. The moment I saw the sky fill with glowing lanterns; I knew it was worth every second of waiting. But what surprised me most was how deeply I fell in love with Northern Thailand—not just with the charm of Chiang Mai, but also with the serene mountain town of Pai. I spent three unforgettable nights at Reverie Siam, a luxurious boutique hotel with elegant British colonial flair. Nestled amid lush greenery and misty hills, it felt like a hidden retreat from the world. Leaving Pai was bittersweet—I only wished I had stayed longer. The other aspect that made this stay perfect was the fact that the resort is a few minutes away from the bustling happy “Pai Walking Street” but that they offered a free shuttle from and to the center of Pai. This made it a perfect combination of a quiet stay on the river with the opportunity to venture out and try all the amazing street food and little shops Pai had to offer.

Accommodation Tips: While this post is mainly related to Pai, I can only warmly recommend also our accommodation in Chiang Mai. It was a more budget friendly option to the boutique hotel in Pai but we loved our stay there! Chiang Mai offers a variety of neighborhoods, each with its own unique charm. For first-time visitors, the Old City is a popular choice. Encircled by ancient walls and a moat, it’s rich in history, with numerous temples, bustling markets, and traditional Thai architecture. Staying here places you right in the center of things and we enjoyed that very much. If you’re looking for a more contemporary vibe, the Nimmanhaemin (Nimman) area is a fantastic option. This trendy district is known for its chic cafes, boutique shops, and vibrant nightlife with quite a few good rooftop bar options. During my trip, I stayed at The Craft Nimman, a stylish 3 star boutique hotel nestled in the heart of the Nimman district. The hotel has large modern, well-appointed rooms and a really nice garden and breakfast area. Most importantly the staff were SUPER friendly and helpful with all our needs. A truly memorable experience.

Excursion Tips: Northern Thailand is not limited in choices of attractions and places to visit and experience. With its numerous temples and lush jungles, tradition meets modernity- there is really something for everyone. I will highlight a few of my own recommendations here per each of the cities I visited: Chiang Mai & Pai.

Chiang Mai: Every November the city prepares for the big Lantern Festival (Yi Peng) I could spend pages over this one but in three short words: Wow Wow Wow. I really do not have words to express the feeling when hundreds of lanterns are released simultaneously and the sky is fully lit. While the festival itself is really a must please note that the city is super crowded during the festival days and its best to research and purchase tickets in advance for your venue of choice. Consider also looking for an accommodation that is walking distance to your pickup area during the night of the festival. Chiang Mai is also known for its many elephant sanctuaries however some, while stating that they are ethical are actually not. Should this matter be close to your heart DO NOT choose any sanctuary that still allows riding elephants or even bathing them as only the “hands off” policy is the real ethical policy. Our choice was Elephant Nature Park. We had a no riding or bathing yet an amazing close encounter with these gentle giants and learned to appreciate greatly the work they do around conservation and protection of these beauties.

Pai: Did I already mention I feel in love with Pai? I do not mind saying it again! It really is a kept secret that once you come to Pai you never want to leave. Many decide to skip this beautiful mountain town due to the super winding road that leads to it from Chiang Mai. You might want to avoid the local bus as the reviews over car sickness are quite discouraging. With over 700 road turns I strongly recommend hiring a driver. We managed to survive the 3 hour ride using a driver and with one stop at the famous sticky waterfalls. We made it to Pai in one piece (of Pie!) A must do in Pai is a sunset visit to Pai Canyon. Recommended to take some good walking shoes and a camera to capture the beautiful colors of the canyon as the sun goes down.